Archive for the ‘Stains & Lacquers’ Category

Staining Time… Are you ready?

Friday, June 15th, 2012

With sunny and dry days ahead, many have begun thinking about their staining projects. Fences, decks and windows & doors just to name a few.  We thought we’d take the time to take a deeper look at stains and the great Sikkens product we carry at Color Company.

At Color Company we’re pleased to be able to offer you a strong stain product such as Sikkens, it’s high end finishes offer nothing less than the best.  With products of the most superior quality Sikkens finishes provide any wood with a unique appearance, superior durability and outstanding performance.

Sikkens offers a choice of  Translucent, Semi Transparent and Solid stains for your projects.  Depending on the type of project you’re working on you may have a smaller choice due to some finishes/colours only being suited for a particular product or type of wood.  If you’re unsure of your choices or where to start we’re happy to help.  Drop into any of our stores and we’d be glad to get you on your way.  Here’s a quick overview of the colours Sikkens finishes offer:

Here are a few Do’s and Do Not’s when it comes your staining projects:


  • apply stain between the temperatures of 10-35 degrees celcius  (temperatures should be consistent for three days prior… if temps drop above or below the range for one of three days prior it could effect the final outcome.)
  • stir stain well before applying
  • saturate all end grains, nail holes, cavities and cracks in the wood
  • maintain wet edges to prevent lap marks
  • apply stain in direction of wood grain


  • Do not apply stain in direct sunlight (late afternoon or dusk might be a great option if you’re not an early riser)
  • Do not apply stain when a surface is too hot to touch
  • Do not apply stain when dew, rain or frost is present or expected within 5 hrs
  • Do not thin the stain
  • Do not apply stain when moisture content of the wood is greater than 18%

Staining is a great way to bring out natural grains and keep the natural colour, if that’s what you’re looking for.  Though for those projects that you’re looking for a paint like finish then your choices of solid stains are definitely the way to go. Regardless of the direction… Color Company has just the product, finish and colour you’ll need.

Here’s a SMART TIP to get you on you’re way: It is always recommended  to perform a colour test on a sample of wood being used in the project.  And remember to apply the number of coats required so you can see what the finished product will result in.

Good Luck!


Introducing Sansin Stains to Color Company

Thursday, August 18th, 2011

This week the Color Company is excited to launch the new Sansin Stain Station at their Wonderland store in London.

Sansin has spent 20 yrs. pioneering the use of environmentally friendly water-born wood protection technologies that deliver outstanding performance.  Not only can you protect your wood naturally, you can also invite the beauty of nature into your life.  With a collection of 79 unique colours all inspired by the beauty of the world the sky is your limit.  Sansin no only stains your wood but becomes an integral part of your woods cell structure, protecting it naturally from within.

Color Company is working with Sansin to make your life easier when it comes to choosing stain for your projects. The 300 square foot centre will be located within the PARA Paints Color Company store and built on a 300 sq ft of pine and cedar deck. It will display deeply stained railings showcasing some of the beautiful lustrous Sansin finishes, and will be surrounded by walls covered in tongue and groove pine which will showcase our clear Sansin finishes.

Sansin offers a variety of rich, soft, or natural stain and clear finishes and this ‘Stain Centre’ will allow you to see what your own interior or exterior stain project can look like. No more will you have to rely on small brochures, tiny wood samples, or photo type literature to make your stain and finishing choices. You can see the product on real surfaces right in the Color Company store!

Not familiar with Sansin, check out this great video and then pop on by Color Company to see what it’s all about. Not in the London area but have more questions feel free to contact us and we’d be happy to answer your questions.

Painting Basics

Tuesday, January 11th, 2011

If you weigh the cost of paint with the way in which it can transform your space, you’ll see that paint is the cheapest and most effective way to make the biggest change to your space.  The upside… a fabulous new space, however the downside is you’ll have to repaint.  if you’ve found that you’re not too sure about tackling the job yourself here are a few of the basics to get you going.

#1 Prepare, Prepare, Prepare                    

Before you dip your bush into a bucket give your room the once over and correct any blemishes that might effect the final look.  Be sure you have spackle, a flexible putty knife, fine sandpaper and possibly caulking supplies on hand.  Make sure the walls are clean and dry before you begin.  Fill nail holes withe spackle, and smooth any ridges, lumps or excess dried spackle with sandpaper.  Be sure  that you caulk any gaps between the trim and walls smoothing the caulking bead with a wet finger or damp sponge.

Make sure you cover the work surface with a sheet of plastic or a painters cloth, or place layers of newspaper around the edge of the room. Stir the paint well before you begin and repeat throughout the process. To keep paint from collecting in the bottom of the paint can rim use a hammer and nail to punch a few holes in the rim- this will allow the paint to drip back into the can.

#2 Pick Your Finish

Finish really comes down to your own person preference. (import to use the proper product for interior vs. exterior or rooms that will be effected by steam such as the Kitchen or bathroom) Flat finishes are best for hiding walls with blemishes, but they snow scuffs readily. (Check out PARA Paints Suede finish)  Satins work well in public rooms, Semigloss stand up to cleaning and wear (ideal for Kitchens, Bath & Trim), where gloss show imperfections but work well for cabinetry.

#3 Which Comes First… Trim Or Walls?                

This is a matter of personal preference, most prefer to paint the grim first because i is usually done in a semigloss or gloss paint. If you accidentally get paint from the wall on your newly painted trim it’s easy to wipe off.

#4 Paint The Trim

Incase you skipped the step in your prep work be sure you check the trim for imperfections and repair them as you did on the walls.  If there is any peeling paint, scrape it and then sand it smooth.  It may be necessary to  prime the wood work for best results (especially if you’ve sanded it down to the bare wood. (The trend of dark trim has been upon us for the past year, remember that if you are going to use a dark colour on your trim you have the option to use a printed primer to avoid the extra coast of paint you might need.

Many people prefer to used painters tap around the trim to minimize over painting, but a good sash brush makes accurate painting much easier.  A 2 inch trim or sash brush – either flat or with a slanted bottom – is the best choice.  Load the brush by dipping about a third of it into the can of paint, then tap it on the edge of the can to remove the excess before painting.

#5 Cut In The Edges

For those familiar with painting they know that  ‘cutting in’ refers to painting around the edges of a room -giving a crisp cut to the trim and corners. (Areas that rollers won’t reach.)  For ‘cutting in’ a 2 1/2 or 3 inch brush works best, as with the trim, don’t try to stretch the paint too far or used so much paint that it drips.  Good coverage will prevent fixing problems later.

#6 Paint The Walls                    

Finally the time is here…it’s time to paint the walls.  More often you’ll find peoples preference here is to use a roller  because paint goes on much faster than with a brush.  Select a roller cover made for the texture of your wall – a 3/8 to 1/2 inch nap works well on most surfaces. To load your roller start by dipping it into the deep end of a paint tray and rolling it up the ramp until it is covered.  Pain the wall in small sections, stroking in an overlapping ‘W’ pattern to avoid streaks and ridges.

Next you’re asking about the number of coast needed… depending on the colour chosen and how dark the previous paint is, you may be able to get by with one coat but will more likely require two. (Remember you’ll need a primer…)  Remember that all strokes won’t dry at the same rate- rather than painting one section over and over  (which wastes paint) let the wall dry completely  before deciding whether to give it a second coat.

Hopefully these few steps have help getting you ready for your next weekend project. Happy Painting!

*paint finishes (reference)

Flat- this finish is ideal for non reflective surface quality. These hard to clean paints are better suited for lower use areas in the home or in new construction. However the trend over the past couple years has been to go with a flat finish in more of the home, going with a high quality brand in the flat such as PARA’s Elite is exactly what you’ll need. (One of Sarah Richardson’s  and her teams preferred finishes.)

Eggshell or Satin- this finish has a bit more sheen than flat paints and are ideal for places that need a cleanable but not shiny finish.

Semigloss- as the heading suggests this finish is shinier and easier to clean, but will definitely show imperfections more readily.

High Gloss- ideal for kitchens, baths, woodwork or children’s rooms that need to be wiped frequently. High gloss paints are produce the toughest and most stain resistant finishes.

Oil- this finish contains resins and thinners and are best on chalky surfaces.  high traffic areas such as floors and areas already painted  with oil base paint.