Painting Basics

If you weigh the cost of paint with the way in which it can transform your space, you’ll see that paint is the cheapest and most effective way to make the biggest change to your space.  The upside… a fabulous new space, however the downside is you’ll have to repaint.  if you’ve found that you’re not too sure about tackling the job yourself here are a few of the basics to get you going.

#1 Prepare, Prepare, Prepare                    

Before you dip your bush into a bucket give your room the once over and correct any blemishes that might effect the final look.  Be sure you have spackle, a flexible putty knife, fine sandpaper and possibly caulking supplies on hand.  Make sure the walls are clean and dry before you begin.  Fill nail holes withe spackle, and smooth any ridges, lumps or excess dried spackle with sandpaper.  Be sure  that you caulk any gaps between the trim and walls smoothing the caulking bead with a wet finger or damp sponge.

Make sure you cover the work surface with a sheet of plastic or a painters cloth, or place layers of newspaper around the edge of the room. Stir the paint well before you begin and repeat throughout the process. To keep paint from collecting in the bottom of the paint can rim use a hammer and nail to punch a few holes in the rim- this will allow the paint to drip back into the can.

#2 Pick Your Finish

Finish really comes down to your own person preference. (import to use the proper product for interior vs. exterior or rooms that will be effected by steam such as the Kitchen or bathroom) Flat finishes are best for hiding walls with blemishes, but they snow scuffs readily. (Check out PARA Paints Suede finish)  Satins work well in public rooms, Semigloss stand up to cleaning and wear (ideal for Kitchens, Bath & Trim), where gloss show imperfections but work well for cabinetry.

#3 Which Comes First… Trim Or Walls?                

This is a matter of personal preference, most prefer to paint the grim first because i is usually done in a semigloss or gloss paint. If you accidentally get paint from the wall on your newly painted trim it’s easy to wipe off.

#4 Paint The Trim

Incase you skipped the step in your prep work be sure you check the trim for imperfections and repair them as you did on the walls.  If there is any peeling paint, scrape it and then sand it smooth.  It may be necessary to  prime the wood work for best results (especially if you’ve sanded it down to the bare wood. (The trend of dark trim has been upon us for the past year, remember that if you are going to use a dark colour on your trim you have the option to use a printed primer to avoid the extra coast of paint you might need.

Many people prefer to used painters tap around the trim to minimize over painting, but a good sash brush makes accurate painting much easier.  A 2 inch trim or sash brush – either flat or with a slanted bottom – is the best choice.  Load the brush by dipping about a third of it into the can of paint, then tap it on the edge of the can to remove the excess before painting.

#5 Cut In The Edges

For those familiar with painting they know that  ‘cutting in’ refers to painting around the edges of a room -giving a crisp cut to the trim and corners. (Areas that rollers won’t reach.)  For ‘cutting in’ a 2 1/2 or 3 inch brush works best, as with the trim, don’t try to stretch the paint too far or used so much paint that it drips.  Good coverage will prevent fixing problems later.

#6 Paint The Walls                    

Finally the time is here…it’s time to paint the walls.  More often you’ll find peoples preference here is to use a roller  because paint goes on much faster than with a brush.  Select a roller cover made for the texture of your wall – a 3/8 to 1/2 inch nap works well on most surfaces. To load your roller start by dipping it into the deep end of a paint tray and rolling it up the ramp until it is covered.  Pain the wall in small sections, stroking in an overlapping ‘W’ pattern to avoid streaks and ridges.

Next you’re asking about the number of coast needed… depending on the colour chosen and how dark the previous paint is, you may be able to get by with one coat but will more likely require two. (Remember you’ll need a primer…)  Remember that all strokes won’t dry at the same rate- rather than painting one section over and over  (which wastes paint) let the wall dry completely  before deciding whether to give it a second coat.

Hopefully these few steps have help getting you ready for your next weekend project. Happy Painting!

*paint finishes (reference)

Flat- this finish is ideal for non reflective surface quality. These hard to clean paints are better suited for lower use areas in the home or in new construction. However the trend over the past couple years has been to go with a flat finish in more of the home, going with a high quality brand in the flat such as PARA’s Elite is exactly what you’ll need. (One of Sarah Richardson’s  and her teams preferred finishes.)

Eggshell or Satin- this finish has a bit more sheen than flat paints and are ideal for places that need a cleanable but not shiny finish.

Semigloss- as the heading suggests this finish is shinier and easier to clean, but will definitely show imperfections more readily.

High Gloss- ideal for kitchens, baths, woodwork or children’s rooms that need to be wiped frequently. High gloss paints are produce the toughest and most stain resistant finishes.

Oil- this finish contains resins and thinners and are best on chalky surfaces.  high traffic areas such as floors and areas already painted  with oil base paint.

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